Weekly Style Icon: Elle Fanning resurrects the '60s beehive hairstyle
In an era dominated by meticulously slicked buns, it's simple to overlook a period gone by, where gel was not a necessity to keep hair in check. Instead, hair was encouraged to flourish rather than restrain. At the LA premiere for "A Complete Unknown" on Tuesday night, Elle Fanning graciously took us back to these nostalgic days, sporting a playful blonde beehive that served as a window to the past.
Her 1960s-inspired updo was accentuated by two disheveled pigtails, which served dual purposes as hair ties, becoming Fanning's accessory for the night. The actress, who portrays Sylvie Russo, Dylan's girlfriend, in James Mangold's forthcoming film, strutted onto the red carpet in a custom white Gucci silk gown adorned with crystal embellishments.
Stacked hair has oscillated in and out of fashion since the 18th century, when Marie Antoinette popularized "le pouf" - a towering mound of hair, dressed up with an abundance of decorations and accessories, requiring a cushion to maintain its form. In 1960, this style was revived by Margaret Vinci Heldt, a Chicago-based stylist, often credited as the "mother of the beehive." It swiftly became a defining hairstyle of the 20th century. The beehive was inspired by the silhouette of fez and pillbox hats loved by Jackie Onassis, crafted with pins and hairspray in abundance to attain that iconic shape. The style was synonymous with Brigitte Bardot, Barbara Streisand, Dolly Parton, and in more recent times, with British singer Amy Winehouse.
Although the retro look has been making a tentative comeback, it's essential to differentiate it from the hair crowns of the past. Today, tallness is no longer the defining characteristic of a successful beehive, as celebrities and brands opt for a more understated lift. According to Versace's Spring-Summer 2024 runway, the ideal beehive is now more tasteful and subtle, with models donning swingin' sixties mini-dresses and miniature bouffants. Likewise, at Bora Aksu's Spring-Summer 2025 shows, models flaunted twin sets, cats-eye sunglasses, and elegant towering bouffants. And while Nicola Coughlan, Zendaya, and Kaia Gerber have all embraced the art of teasing this year, the objective is to produce a look that's less Marge Simpson and more subtle.
Fanning's mid-century style serves as a refreshing change from the ubiquitous ballerina buns, but it's still a world away from the philosophy most synonymous with Dolly Parton: "the higher the hair, the closer to Heaven."
Fanning's choice of a 1960s-inspired beehive showcases a different fashion style from the contemporary slicked buns, harking back to an era where natural hair flair was celebrated. The beehive, with its iconic silhouette synonymous with icons like Brigitte Bardot and Dolly Parton, has evolved in modern fashion, now favoring a more tasteful and subtle lift as seen in Versace's Spring-Summer 2024 runway.
